DR-Z 400S

I actually have a Kawasaki KLX400RS but… the KLX400RS is simply a green DR Z 400S.

Tires:

Stock Front: 80/100-21

Stock Rear: 120/90-18

Current Front: 90/90-21 D606

Current Rear: 130/90-18 D606

Recommended by Dan W. – Kenda K270 for a decent do everything tire

Dunlop D606 looks like a good rear knobby, geared more for dirt than the Kenda K270, for the front try a MT21.

Jetting Recommendations

From Thumpertalk via Eddie

3X3 and DJ with stock exhaust (MJ, PJ, Clip from top, fuel screw normally starting at 2.5)
140,25,4th, 2.5 sea level-2000
136,25,3rd 1800-3500
134-136,25,3rd over 3000
128,25,3rd 5000
126,25,3rd over6000
124,25,3rd up to 12000

My experience

Colorado – I tried the above with the 124 and a 22.5 pilot and it ran superb above 9,000 feet but would stutter at high speeds below that

 

Setting Up a DRZ

KLX to do list. In order of importance, IMO, with a budget-minded touch by Sideshow

First and foremost, protect your goods:

1. Shifter mod — Grind/file the sharp edge of the gear shifter lever down. If you look at the gear shifter, there’s a casted edge that can puncture the (THIN!) case cover. Cost: free.

2. Engine guards – ThumperTalk or Ebay, there’s a set of covers for about $30 that you affix to the clutch and stator covers to avoid puncturing. Cost: $30.

3. Skid Plate — I got mine from Thumpertalk — I think it’s about $90.

4. Barkbusters — Do this at the same time you do the handlebar (see item 8 below) to ease installation. I watched ADVRider’s Flea Market forum to score a set for about $60. Plenty out there, just make sure you get the ones backed by an aluminum bar that wraps over your hand.  (Acerbis Rally Pro X Strong)

5. Radiator Guards — Unabiker or Devols are most common. None fit perfectly. I have Devols. I think the Unabikers go on easier. Again, scouring the ADVFlea is sometimes a good way to save a few bucks. Otherwise expect to spend about $80-100. Don’t get the $30 cheapies because they are just grille guards and don’t support the radiators.

6. Headlight guard — It’s a good winter project and it’s usually almost free. Find a way to attach a piece of plexiglass in front of the stock headlight. It’s nice to have for following people when rocks get flying. I can show you some examples.

Then add your crap.:

7. Gearing. 15/47 or 15/48 works for me. Nice to keep 15 on the front unless you expect to do a lot more dirt than dualsport.

8. Handlebar — You’re tall. The stock handlebar will likely feel a bit low. Get a nice handlebar that can take down trees. You’ll have to drill locating holes for the controls to fit properly.  Many people seem to like the CR Hi Bend from Renthal

9. Luggage rack — there are a few of them out there. I got the TCI (TurboCity, Inc.) rack on newenough without the sideracks. If you want to run saddlebags, the pricer version with the racks isn’t a bad option. Ian Brown had the siderack setup in Mexico and it was a super nice setup for packing stuff along.

10. Expanded gas tank. I recommend a luggage rack before the gas tank. You can get pretty far with the ~120-mile range of the stock tank. It’s nice to have more just in case. I got the IMS 4.0L and it does hold 4.0 before the bike totally dies. The gas cap gasket thing sucks on the cap, but I’ve found I don’t need it. I liked the way the IMS 4.0L wrapped around the radiators. Clarke 3.9L has a better gas cap gasket, is narrower than the IMS, and uses the radiator cover fins from the stock gas tank to finish it off.  ThumperTalk has a thread saying the IMS 4.0 does not fit well with the Unibiker rad guards.  Clarks 3.9 does work.  Link.

11. Seat — I did the Corbin. It’s way better than the stock seat. ADVFlea again. There’s other options: Renazco ($$$ and time for turnaround), SDG (not much of an improvement), etc.).  Good reviews on the less expensive SeatConcepts too on Thumpertalk (They make a tall version).

Prevention:

12. Backup clutch cable — always nice to have a spare ready. You can string in a second clutch cable under the tank, taped off on both ends with electrical tape for when the first one goes. Haven’t had one go on me yet, but I’m ready for it.

13. Filterskins — when I do multi-day dirt stuff I put a Filterskin over the air filter so I can peel it and clean it without the messy foam air filter cleanup.

14. Slime in the tires — for multiday dirt stuff.

Other things (I haven’t done, but others have found useful)

a. 3X3 mod — I did this to the first bike. Decided for bike #2 that it’s not enough of a gain to make up for the loss in mpg for the way I use the bike. It’s an improvement for power, for sure. But not worth it for the long run.

b. Tidy tail or something to protect the turnsignals. I’ve broken enough turnsignals that I probably could have benefitted from one. I think they generally look ugly and aren’t conducive to street safety.

c. Smaller mirrors. Sure the stock mirrors are big, but they work really well (again, with the street safety). And they take a good beating.

Luggage options:

I’ll probably never settle on a single setup. Right now I have the TCI rear rack and the $95 side racks from Ebay (search DRZ Side Rack to find it, company is PMR).  The rear rack gets a waterproof dry dufflebag. I bought Wolfman’s Expedition tank panniers. They work fine on the tank, but hit your knees and so I bought the side racks to hang those over. Now I have the option — up front on the knees, or over the back. Ortlieb saddlebags are probably the best answer. It’d be cool to know if they would work on the Ebay sideracks, because the other options for racks aren’t as cheap.

Stuff I’ve seen:

Dirtbagz — a nice option that seems to work. If only they were waterproof.

Motofizz rear bag — also nice if you like compartments.

Giant Loop — $$$ but reportedly awesome.

Reima bags — appear to be good options.

Not really too many bad options — just really good and better. It comes down to what you want to pay. Generally the more $$ = worth it. I’ve gotten pretty far on a drybag strapped to the back rack.

Daggy’s List of Gear on his KLX

– Kimpex grip heater kit #912025 – bought at Bob’s Cycle
– Kouba Link #1 (lowering link) – Kientech Engineering
– Extended fuel screw  – Kientech Engineering
– Pro-Taper Universal Bar Mount Kit # 702000 – Bought from Bob’s Cycle
– Acerbis Handguards (for Pro-taper bar)
– Rally Pro handguard spoilers for Acerbis h/guards – from Dennis Kirk #61-3938
– Clark 4.2g fuel tank # 1409
– Zeta 3-finger pivot levers #ZE41-3142 & #ZE42-3140 – Both from Wheeling Cycle Supply
– Green side panels – Dennis Kirk #61-4798
– Thumper Talk skid plate #WB_31939X